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1995 Ranger Part 3 -The Rebuild Process

I've said this a 1000 times already in these updates, but one more won't hurt. Before removing the old harness tag everything, take pics, do what ever you need to, to make sure you know what went where. It will come in handy, also wiring schematics are a huge plus. Now, with the wiring ran to the general areas they go too, I cut to length and started making the connections. Using the old fuse box pass through location, I made a removable panel that allowed me to mount the new fuse panel in an easy to reach position.

In most newer ford there is this. This is the GEM (General Electronic Module)  it controls just about everything in the vehicle. From wiper speed, to dome lights, to alarm. This is the brain center and must be reused if you wish to maintain your factory switches and features. It also is the most pain in the rear box to wire as it goes to everything. Since we have eliminated 90% of the factory features, I had to go through the schematics and change the wiring to make sure it was properly powered and grounded with out the other accessories it once controlled.

 

We put in the newly repainted dash so we could finish running our new harness and making our connections. This is necessary because we can't cut to length anything for radio, alarm, gauges, etc. with out knowing how long they need to be. And we don't want a ton of excess causing a pain and more unnecessary clutter.

Tip: some systems like this blinker headlight control are completely independent from the main harness and will need to be tied back in to the new one. This is where the tags and pics will come in handy.

 

Since we are going fully custom, I built this new housing using the factory bezel to house the new Autometer gauges. In a later update I'll show how to make your own.

 

 

Due to clearance issue the old fan was an issue, so I figured our with a little radiator support trimming and a slight rewire. We could turn the fans in to pushers instead of puller and put them in from of the radiator giving us ample and much need room. (puller mean pulling air through the radiator, while pushing means forcing air through instead. Most fan can be reversed with a simple wiring change and fan blade flip)

Up next, body mods and paint

The Good/The Bad/The Ugly - Car Projects....

The hardest part about a full custom car project, is that it can take years to finish if doing it on your own. No one ever said customizing was easy, if it were everyone would do it. The important part is know that fear of the project is all mental. If you mess something up it can be repaired, replaced or redone better. Often times I find that the first round of doing something is like a rough draft. Each time its redone it gets a little better. The most important part of any project is time, have patients. Know that you probably won't finish it all in a day, week or even years depending on the complexity. Just focus on small goals and before you know it your car will be done. There is gonna be set backs, problems that seem unsolvable and a bolt of two that's made its own mind about being loosened or tightened, its just part of the project. Every car has problems like these, not just yours. Take it from someone who has build a large number. Lastly, enjoy yourself. The build shouldn't be one of stress and worry. Yes, driving the car will be fun but creating it from something completely stock can be just as good, if not better. There is probably not greater feeling at a car show or on the street, then people stopping/starring or outright admiring your car. That you built, so I encourage you to start your own project and send us the pics and your progress we'd love to share with our readers!

Email your pics and progress to bsmith4037@gmail.com and we'll post up your ride

Past Rides - 1997 Honda Accord H22 Turbo 475hp - Part 3

After sanding and degreasing the car thoroughly, we masked it off using masking paper and painters tape. Starting with a base coat of Europrimer. It was sprayed about 3 times then sanded again. The spray a few more times and sanded one more final time before final primer layer.

Using a house of color yellow we repeated the same process as the primer. Once we were done with the color, we color sanded and proceeded with the clear. The more clear the deeper the look, but be careful, to many layer it may start to crack. lastly we buffed any orange peel for a glass smooth look.

For the engine bay we taped off the back half of the car and used a single stage black paint to finish it off.

Back from paint, the reassembly began. Since our panels were already complete we made quick work of putting it back in. And since we were going all out we modified the airbag and headrests to accept a 5" TV, just because we could. lol

The H22a got the following: fresh machining, crower crank, rods and je pistons, ferrea titanium valve train with stage 3 race ported head and 3 angle valve job, custom T4 turbo manifold with T3/T4 turbo, AEM rail and ported to match intake manifold.

With the motor in, we began final assembly. While we waited on the rims and the new body kit we went ahead and got our "break in" period over. Even barely getting on the gas, it was obvious the H22 loved the boost. I'd say it was the hardest 500 miles I've ever driven (only because I wanted to mash the gas every chance I got)

This is the final product. A dyno proven 475 hp turbo H22a.