Reverse Light Reduction, LED Style

Our project '68 came with what I describe as stadium sized reverse lights. While they do no real harm, I wanted a sleeker and new age look. I would have liked to integrate them into the tail light housing. Unfortunately they don't currently offer a clear lens which would allow this modification. So instead, I opted for the next best thing. Super small and even brighter LED lights.

These super bright white LEDs are about a 1/4 of the size and yet twice as noticeable when activated. Even better then draw less currently and the hookup is incredibly simple. All for a cost of $6



To install, started with removing the factory reverse lights. They bolt in from the backside of the valance. Removing those 2 bolts is all that is needed to remove the light. Then unhook the wiring harness at the connection and pull out.

The new LEDs have a simple rubber grommet that holds it in place. This allows placement almost anywhere you wish. I choose next to the plate, where its out of the way and once the car is painted black with disappear until activated.

Just had to drill out the the 5/8 hole. Run the wire through and push into place. That's it for the mounting. Next I used the factory harness to supply them with power so they worked exactly like the factory lights did.

As seen in our patch panel article. The old reverse light holes were then filled in. Giving our ride a nice sleek look.

Fitting A New Larger Race Radiator In The 68!

While our old 3 core copper radiator worked just fine for our 68's mild built 302. Going turbo will add additional heat into the car, so a larger more efficient means of cooling is a must. For that I got a champion 4 core aluminum radiator. While it will do everything we need it to, fitting it in  was not a simple bolt in task.

First I removed the fan and disconnected the wiring. 4 bolts attach it to the radiator and the power and ground wires were disconnected from the fan control module. Then just lift out and set aside.

 Next the radiator was drained and the hoses removed from it. Since its a
5-speed car no transmission lines were attached. If you have an automatic you'll need to detach the transmission cooler lines as well, if your radiator uses the lower portion to cool (champion makes radiators for both 5-speed and auto). After draining all the fluids, 4 more bolts hold the radiator to the support. Then remove the thermostat probe and lift radiator out of the car.

Now the easy part is over. The new radiator is a little taller and doesn't have the slopping the edges like our copper one did. So to fit, it had to be lowered into the car more and here's how. First because the car has a Mustang II front suspension installed. The old strut rods braces can be removed. To do so I used a reciprocating saw to remove the large pieces. Then went back with an air saw to remove the smaller portions and finally finished it up with a grinder to remove any remaining metal. With this done the focus turned to the radiator support. Because this radiator is thick, I wanted to set it back as far as possible for the most engine clearance. So the bottom lip of the radiator support had to be altered. To do so, I made about 6-7 cuts along the lip and folded it up against the support itself. For added strength I went ahead and welded the fold to the support.

The reason for the new radiator was larger surface area for cooling, but the current opening concealed a good part of that area. So I set the radiator again the support and traced a line using a marker of area needing to be removed. The air saw with a fine blade made quick work of the excess sheet metal leaving a perfect fit for the new radiator. Lastly 4 new hole were marked and drilled to mount the radiator. This was done by positioning the radiator on a floor jack and raising to the correct height of the hole. Using a 1/2 drill bit and a uni-bit to clean up the holes. The radiator get mounted up.

For the fan. It mounted directly to the old one, but because the new one is much wider. I had to come up with a new design. Using the same parts that came with it. I mount the fan to one side to the radiator as before (had to drill the holes for it. Then using two of the supplied arms, I created a new single arm able to reach to the other side of the radiator. To make the arm I used a flat head socket screw, so it would sit flush in the arm. This prevents any radiator wear and bolt down from the top to allow adjustment with ease. Then Just reverse the removal process bolting down and reattaching the wires.



Now we have a bigger, better and more efficient means of cooling off our street beast. Total cost was around $300 including the cost of the radiator, hoses, bolts and blades. Not bad for the gains in cooling!

Making the 68's center console from scratch!

Sure you can buy a prebuilt console to fit your needs, but where's the fun in that! On this update I show you from start to finish the creation of our custom mustang center console.

I wanted something a little different but still had that somewhat classic feel. To do this I went full length console, attaching to the bottom of the dash rather then the radio din. This allows the use of the radio slot for our Autometer gauge pod and giving ample room to add as many features as we wish. Starting like our other console builds using a piece of card board I roughed out the basic slope and angle of the console. After transferring that template to a piece of 1/2 MDF, I used a jigsaw to cut out matching sides. For cross support I used a light and strong 2"x 2" pine. You can use what ever materials you wish. I choose these for their cost and the ease of modifying them. additionally the MDF is easy to resin for a smooth painted look or work well with most glues if covering with fabric.

If you notice the inlay strip of MDF, that's so the top panel when wrap will sit a a specific height with out need for screws or fasteners giving a much cleaner look. Below you can see where I test fit the top portion to see where things were best put. This way everything is out of the way and at its optimal position for the driver.

 To finish it off, I use a sample matched black carpet for the sides and black suede for the top portion to tie in the headliner and seats. The multiple cup holders work well and the radio is tucked up out of the way but still easily used and read. Over all I'm pretty happy with the outcome, but may resin and color match to the black painted dash.

Patch panels! Making them with basic hand tools and installation guide

A lot of shows on TV and even articles you read in magazines show expensive tools for making patch panels. While these can make the task easier its not necessarily a must have. Here I'll show you a simple way to make a patch panel and install it on our '68 mustang project using only inexpensive hand tools found at any big box hardware store.

First start by matching up the metal thickness to the area your patching. Different thicknesses can be done, but when possible for a flush finish, I recommend matching up. I had scrap piece from another project that fit the bill. Next simply place the new metal behind the hole. Then using a marker or metal pen trace out the hole on the new steel.

Using a pair of metal shears cut out the pattern, you traced out. I used a pair of pliers to snap off any pieces that including quite get the shears into. Using this approach may warp the metal slightly. If so worries. Using a flat hammer, a few light wraps will smooth it back out.

Then I used a magnet to hold in place on the panel, while I made my initial spot welds. Again I'm using a low end wire fed mig welder available at most hardware stores for around $100. Once spot welded on all sides. Just continue to make spot welds in a circle pattern until you've full welded your seem. This prevents warping the thinner metal for excessive heat.

Afterwards ground down the welds. Again using a basic 4" angle grinder, nothing special. Now an air grinder with a nice compressor backing it will give a more mirror like finish and is less likely to go to deep into the metal. But I wanted to show you can do the same work with out much money invested in more expensive tools. And with that we're done. Just need a little more grinding, a small skim of filler and sanding its ready for paint.

Before

After

Mustang Sunday At Biff Burger With The Pony Up Mustang Club

Great bunch of local Mustang & Ford fans. Very nice people with an open mentality and

willingness to help others or just talk cars. Had the pleasure of attending their once a month

meet up at Biff burger deemed Mustang Monday (although it was a Sunday this time due to

the holiday). I'm attaching a link to their public FB page https://www.facebook.com/ponysup

I recommend if you get a chance stopping by and checking them out.